Coats in our time should not just be warm and comfortable clothes, but also be a beautiful and original element of the wardrobe. Let's try to understand what a modern coat is, what the designers are demanding.
If earlier winter and demi-season dresses were considered female elements of the wardrobe, now you can see this version of outerwear on men in severe winters, rainy autumn and even on a hot summer day! Coat fabric with pile is relevant in the cold season, cotton is a hit of summer. After the appearance of duplicate materials, the technology of making coats has changed significantly, the amount of manual work has significantly decreased, many operations related to the creation of outerwear have become automatic. Modern equipment allows the fabric for a coat to be converted into finished products in just 4-8 days. Bezklevaya technology is used for sewing products of premium class. For such models, mostly cashmere coats are used, the cost of products is from 1300 dollars, time costs for tailoring are increased 3-5 times.
To obtain a coat of perfect quality, it is important to choose the right material, lining, and also a heater for the future of the outerwear element. We will analyze the main materials that are used in our time when sewing men's coats. Before you go to the store to buy a fabric for a coat, you need to learn the rules for its selection.
For sewing men's variants of warm clothes, a lot of various fabrics are used, which have an increased wear resistance, as well as good heat-shielding characteristics. Currently, the coat is classified into women's, children's, men's fabrics. There is a division by seasons of the year on demi-season, summer, winter materials. To a greater extent, a coat is required when sewing demi-season and winter products. The most stringent requirements are imposed on the heat-protective characteristics of demi-season coats, which do not involve the use of special heaters. Winter has under the top an additional insulating layer.
Coat fabric, which is chosen for the manufacture of winter products, in addition to thermal protection qualities, should be beautiful, light, have good water repellent characteristics.
How do they classify coats?
Materials are made from different raw materials and, depending on the structure, are divided into:
- fabric wool (in its pure form in recent years, almost never used);
In turn, the coat is additionally divided into:
About modern coat materials
Coat wool fabrics are currently presented in a wide range. They are most often used when sewing demi-season and winter models.
Quality Italian coat fabrics managed to gain popularity in the Russian market due to their excellent external qualities and technical characteristics. For example, worsted Italian fabrics can be pure-wool, that is, contain more than 90% of natural strands, or half-woolen (contain 50-90%). Among pure-woolen leaders belong to boucle, bobriku, gabardine, tweed.
What is gabardine?
Gabardine is a fabric with a diagonal weave. In the production of gabardine, twisted yarn is used. Such fabrics are loose, hard, suitable for sewing women's and men's summer coats. When creating gabardine, modern manufacturers use the treatment of the material with special water-repellent impregnations, which increases the performance characteristics of this type of coat fabric.
What is a boucle?
Bukle is a rough cloth of linen weaving, made from shaped yarn, which has large knots, either in the base or in the weft, which gives a cone-shaped structure. A part of the boucle is created from twisted yarn in a weft and a base, a shallowly weaved weave is used. It is not resistant to mechanical damage, any tightening, elongated loops will spoil the external characteristics of this material.
What is tweed?
Tweed refers to a fabric that has a melange effect, as well as a rough characteristic surface. It is comfortable and pleasant to wear, resistant to ultraviolet radiation, elastic, resistant to moths. Its name is due to the river flowing on the territory of Scotland.
Cloth alpaca coat is appreciated highly enough, as it has excellent performance characteristics. Warm clothing made of such wool, pleasant to the touch, has increased wear resistance, is not capable of causing allergic reactions. As practice shows, it has medical characteristics, and therefore it is recommended to people who have problems with joints.
What is a beaver?
Bobrik is a woolen dense and rigid fabric, with a standing short combed pile on the front side of the fabric.
Camel wool - Vigon
Camel's wool itself is fluff or the undercoat of an ordinary one-horned camel. Many manufacturers do not paint this material, then it has a light brown color. It is customary to call Vigonya a material made from the wool of a lama, which is common in Latin America. Raw materials are combed, the animal is not cut. Coats made from a similar fabric are distinguished by their high strength, softness, and excellent thermal insulation characteristics.
Wool Blend Worsted Fabrics
If the fabric contains not only natural wool, but also there are additives of capron, lavsan, nitron, they are considered half woolly worsted coat fabrics. An example is cashmere. This chic, exquisite, expensive material is made from the undercoat of cashmere goats, plucked down manually (because of this so high price).
Cashmere raw materials have several threads, the average thickness of which is 13-20 microns (2 times thinner than a human hair), so you can feel softness after touching. This material perfectly preserves heat, almost does not cause allergies, is slightly dirty. The most high-quality and expensive cashmere fluff is produced in Mongolia and China. Among the shortcomings of the natural variant, one can mention the appearance of spools in the process of wearing socks.
These are half-woolen and pure-woolen fabrics, in the manufacture of which single and apparatus twisted pure woolen yarn is used. They are created by small-speckled, twill or linen weave. The leading positions among the group are cloth and drapery.
Drapes are considered to be heavy fabrics that have a significant scrap, so their surface is covered with a felt-like cover. On the front side there is a pile, this is how the inside and the underside of the material are distinguished. Currently, manufacturers offer drapes of one- and two-layer versions, with a combined or simple weave.
Among the thin drapes you need to mention the bottle, ratin, and velor. They are also often found in stores, but their popularity is much lower than that described above.
It should be noted that the shelves are always filled with a variety of coat options. This situation is quite understandable. So, for example, the price of a mobile phone can differ for the cheapest and most expensive in a few dozen times. Similarly, in the situation with the choice of material for the manufacture of coats - someone can afford a brand tailoring of cashmere, and someone will prefer the most cheaper options, given the main property - the heat in the winter. Of course, expensive fabrics keep heat better, but sometimes this improvement is not worth the overpaid money - take a look at the quality, but at the same time democratic coat, which you can buy for the same money a few.